📍Varanasi, India - City Guide

A city where the life and death of mortal vessels are intertwined and on full display for all to see. Deceased bodies are paraded down the narrow laneways swathed in marigold-coloured silks, making their final journey to their final resting place Mother Ganga (the Ganges). 

Families of the deceased stand nearby and observe as their loved ones are purified with fires (cremated) and washed into the holiest river in the holiest city in the Hindu faith, all to achieve Moksha - the liberation from the continuous cycle of reincarnation.

Welcome to Varanasi (VAR-AH-NASS-EE).

Varanasi had always drawn me in and I knew one day I would have to see it with my own eyes, and perhaps more importantly than see it I needed to feel it, and feel it I did.  In my time in Varanasi, I felt joyousness, disbelief, amazement, shock, sadness and a sense of connection that I couldn’t possibly explain. A city where life and death of the mortal vessel are intertwined and on full display for all to see. Deceased bodies are paraded down the narrow laneways swathed in marigold-coloured silks, making their final journey to their final resting place Mother Ganga (the Ganges).

Families of the deceased stand nearby and observe as their loved ones are purified with fires (cremated) and washed into the holiest river in the holiest city in Hindu faith, all to achieve Moksha - the liberation from the continuous cycle of reincarnation. This was almost too much for me to bear as I stood and watched someone’s family member burn, and as flecks of their ashes floated and landed on me, tears started and they did not stop. Nothing can prepare you for that.

Dating back over 2000 years, Emperors carved their legacy in Varanasi. A living testament to time, millennia old traditions blend with the modern world to create a city like no other on earth. The birthplace of Hinduism, Varanasi’s origins are shrouded in myth and believed to be as old as civilisation itself. Hindu scriptures place Varanasi’s founding at the hands of Lord Shiva, making it one of the foremost pilgrimage centers in the world. For centuries Varanasi has witnessed the rise and fall of dynasties, you can quite literally feel the historical secrets held in Varanasi’s centuries old walls.

The lifeblood of India, The Ganges holds supreme importance in Hinduism and this is displayed in Varanasi by the way the city is built with a focus on Mother Ganga. Numerous Ghats (sets of stairs) lining the riverbank are not just bathing platforms, but stages for local and pilgrims daily rituals. From the fiery cremation pyres to sunset trance-inducing Aarti ceremony, life unfolds before your very eyes and this is a spectacle that you simply need to see, at least once in your lifetime.

So as a tourist, why visit Varanasi? Well as with all of India, I will say, that Varanasi is not for the faint of heart. This is not a destination to be taken lightly, but for those looking to gain an understanding or further knowledge of Hinduism and many of Indias customs and cultures, Varanasi is the place. For me Varanasi was about gaining a different perspective on life, and death, it was a deeply personal journey that broke down my preconceptions of culture and religion. 

Varanasi is more than just a tourist destination; it's a spiritual vortex, a journey into the heart of Hinduism. Here, the past whispers in every cobbled lane, the present unfolds in rituals that have endured for centuries, and the future shimmers in the promise of liberation. So, if you seek a city that transcends time and space, where every corner pulses with history and faith, Varanasi awaits with open arms, ready to weave its magic on your soul.

Here are my 12 must-do’s when in Varanasi:

1. Witness the Dawn on the Ganges:

As the first rays of sun kiss the horizon, casting an ethereal glow upon the ghats,(ghats are stairways leading down to the sacred Ganges River) embark on a soul-stirring boat ride. Watch life unfold – pilgrims performing rituals, devotees taking a holy dip, and the gentle rhythm of daily life awakening. Let the tranquillity of the Ganges seep into your being.

2. Immerse Yourself in the Ganga Aarti:

Every evening, a mesmerizing spectacle unfolds at the ghats. Hundreds of lamps flicker in unison, illuminating the river and faces etched with devotion. Immerse yourself in the collective chant of hymns as priests offer their oblations to the sacred Ganges. This nightly ritual is a testament to faith and the enduring spirit of Varanasi.

3. Explore the Enchanting Ghats:

Varanasi boasts over 80 ghats, each with its own story to tell. Stroll along the bustling Dasaswamedh Ghat, the epicenter of religious fervor. Seek serenity at the serene Assi Ghat, a haven for yoga enthusiasts and backpackers. Whisper a prayer at Manikarnika Ghat, the sacred site of cremation. Each ghat is a microcosm of life, death, and everything in between.

4. Pay Homage at Kashi Vishwanath Temple:

Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Kashi Vishwanath Temple is a spiritual powerhouse. Its golden spires pierce the sky, symbolizing the city's deep-rooted faith. Navigate the narrow lanes surrounding the temple, soak in the vibrant atmosphere, and offer your prayers at this sacred temple.

5. Seek Enlightenment in Sarnath:

A short ride from Varanasi lies Sarnath, where Gautama Buddha delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. Explore the ruins of ancient monasteries, marvel at the Dhamek Stupa, and soak in the peaceful vibes of this Buddhist pilgrimage site.

6. Delve into the Past at the Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum:

Step back in time at the Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum, a treasure trove of Indian art and artifacts. Witness intricate sculptures, fascinating paintings, and ancient manuscripts that speak volumes about the city's rich cultural heritage.

7. Wander Through the Bustling Chowk:

Varanasi's heart beats in its labyrinthine alleys, known as the Chowk. Lose yourself in a kaleidoscope of colours, vibrant fabrics, and exotic spices. Bargain for silks and souvenirs, savour local delicacies, and experience the city's raw, pulsating energy.

8. Indulge in Varanasi’s Street Food

The city's soul simmers in its vibrant street food, a symphony of spice-laden aromas that weave through alleyways and dance around ghats. Crispy samosas, their golden shells cracking open to reveal a symphony of potato and peas, begging to be dipped in creamy chai. Dosa crepes, impossibly thin and laced with fermented batter's tang, pirouette on steel griddles, waiting to be twirled around tangy coconut chutney and fiery tomato salsa. Aloo tikki, potato patties studded with coriander and chillies, sizzle in vats of bubbling oil, tempting passersby with their golden glow. Jalebis, neon orange coils soaked in sugary syrup, beckon with their sticky sweetness, promising an instant sugar rush. And for the bold, there's chaat, a kaleidoscope of textures and flavours – crispy fried dough, tangy chutneys, creamy yogurt, and a fiery sprinkle of chaat masala – that ignite the palate and leave you wanting more.

 Varanasi's street food is more than just a meal; it's a cultural immersion, a vibrant tapestry woven with history, tradition, and the unbridled passion of generations of cooks. So, grab a plate, wander the labyrinthine alleys, and let your taste buds guide you on a journey into the heart of this ancient city.

9. Climb Up the Ramnagar Fort:

For panoramic views of the city and the Ganges, ascend the ramparts of the Ramnagar Fort. This 18th-century Mughal marvel offers a unique perspective on Varanasi's sprawling tapestry.

10. Learn the Art of Silk Weaving:

Varanasi is renowned for its exquisite silk sarees. Witness the intricate process of silk weaving at a local workshop, and perhaps even pick up a unique souvenir that embodies the city's artisanal spirit.

11. Bharat Mata Mandir

This unique shrine shows the most incredible relief (3D) map, a dedication to Mother India. Carved in marble the temple was built in 1936 and inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi, this is the only shrine ever dedicated to a country, not a deity.

12. Durga Mandir Temple

Constructed in the 18th Century and dedicated to the goddess Durga, this stunning red temple is like no other you have ever seen.

As you depart Varanasi, the scent of incense trails you, the echo of mantras lingering in your ears. The Ganges whispers farewell, her currents carrying your footsteps, your memories, and your prayers down her ancient path. The city may fade in the rearview mirror, but its indelible mark remains – a vibrant kaleidoscope of sights, sounds, and smells etched on your soul.

Varanasi leaves you forever changed, carrying a piece of its magic within you, a silent promise to return someday and lose yourself once more in the eternal embrace of its soul.

Happy Wandering!

Jess :)